Built the LPB-1 you have on here and love it. Thanks!
I put this on a strip board and it isn't working...
I trace the signal from Rail9-1 to Rail7-4 and for some reason, it isn't passing through to the rest of the circuit. I've swapped out 3 different 33k resistors, which all test at almost exactly 33k outside of the circuit... so I know the resistors aren't bad.
While I'm kinda new to this DIY thing, I follow directions VERY well and its a little disconcerting that this isn't working... maybe its mislabeled?
I tried a jumper instead of the resistor but it was oscillating, so I put a 1k in there and now signal passes through.
The problem I'm facing is that the pot/dips have no affect over the sound/volume/anything, so I'm at an impasse.
I've checked all the traces and cuts and they are all clean.
Voltages at Q1: G=3.72, S=2.99, D=3.0
Voltages at Q2: E=2.61, C=8.93, B=3.3 (when testing slowly drops to 3.03)
Hoping you can shed some light on the circuit or something that might be happening.
Can anyone provide a layout showing the addition of the Millenium bypass 1 plus (DPDT)?
I've tried but it only works with the power jack (sounds awesome) and not the battery. Also, the LED won't turn off when I switch but Bypass works... How does the volume pot connect?
Biassing is not needed since there are no transistors on it ;) It has 6 diodes to keep the distortion down to a minimum. I believe the AC booster only has 3 diodes which increases clipping. The AC Booster is nearly identical to the RC booster.
Hi! I want to build this pedal, is it working? How it should be biased?
Looking other schems, I've just seen 3 diodes, while you're using 6 of them... why? :)
Btw, does it works as the original unit (so it's a Really Clean boost)?
- a cut trace is missing under the IC, between PIN 4 & PIN5 respectively VCC - & OFFSET N2
- the ground must be wired between R1 & IC PIN4 on the other side of row #5
I'm not really fond of tubescreamers, but I heard the Maxon is quite allright for a tubescreamer... Of course I'm interested in the schematic, I just don't know when I have the time to make a layout for it...
perhaps you could wire a 220 and a 20 in series
Haha. never mind my last email... its late, I'm dumb. I got it working.
Thanks for another awesome layout!
-Mat
Hey,
Built the LPB-1 you have on here and love it. Thanks!
I put this on a strip board and it isn't working...
I trace the signal from Rail9-1 to Rail7-4 and for some reason, it isn't passing through to the rest of the circuit. I've swapped out 3 different 33k resistors, which all test at almost exactly 33k outside of the circuit... so I know the resistors aren't bad.
While I'm kinda new to this DIY thing, I follow directions VERY well and its a little disconcerting that this isn't working... maybe its mislabeled?
I tried a jumper instead of the resistor but it was oscillating, so I put a 1k in there and now signal passes through.
The problem I'm facing is that the pot/dips have no affect over the sound/volume/anything, so I'm at an impasse.
I've checked all the traces and cuts and they are all clean.
Voltages at Q1: G=3.72, S=2.99, D=3.0
Voltages at Q2: E=2.61, C=8.93, B=3.3 (when testing slowly drops to 3.03)
Hoping you can shed some light on the circuit or something that might be happening.
Thanks.
-Mat
Can I replace the 2N5088 with a 2N4401 with no problems?
That's a "yes" ;)
Is this layout is verified to work?
Only by myself...
Can anyone provide a layout showing the addition of the Millenium bypass 1 plus (DPDT)?
I've tried but it only works with the power jack (sounds awesome) and not the battery. Also, the LED won't turn off when I switch but Bypass works... How does the volume pot connect?
Verified?
Yep, it's still unverified. Be my guest to build it!
"It's a square wave trem with rapid decay. Sounds like an echo. Well, if echos sounded like cheesy 60's guitar effects."
Sound sample: http://www.mediafire.com/?2l9miu9tdysd1b1
Schematic: http://users.rio.com/senorris/wsgr.gif (offline?)
Hi man,
is it still unverified?
thanks so much! :)
Biassing is not needed since there are no transistors on it ;) It has 6 diodes to keep the distortion down to a minimum. I believe the AC booster only has 3 diodes which increases clipping. The AC Booster is nearly identical to the RC booster.
Hi! I want to build this pedal, is it working? How it should be biased?
Looking other schems, I've just seen 3 diodes, while you're using 6 of them... why? :)
Btw, does it works as the original unit (so it's a Really Clean boost)?
Thanks!
Can anyone verify this build.
Thank you for reporting, I've edited the description and I'll have a look at it as soon as I have some time...
Cheers!
Hi there,
There are 2 errors on the above layout :
- a cut trace is missing under the IC, between PIN 4 & PIN5 respectively VCC - & OFFSET N2
- the ground must be wired between R1 & IC PIN4 on the other side of row #5
well here the schematic if u interested.
http://www.matsumin.net/diy/bunkai/od-808/OD-808_sch.BMP
I'm not really fond of tubescreamers, but I heard the Maxon is quite allright for a tubescreamer... Of course I'm interested in the schematic, I just don't know when I have the time to make a layout for it...
Workin on a Xotic EP Booster right now...
Hello harald, i have a request for a layout for maxon od808. if u like i could give the link of its schematics. I love your work! Keep it up!
Check the 'BOM' tab under the layout ;)
(BOM = Bill Of Materials)
Any chance you could post the values the component markings refer to ?
Thanks
exactly
i used the j201 i dont have a voltmeter new at this
a j201 and i dont have a voltmeter i built 2 of them same thing
Just to help clarify, the red square with red dots indicate that the PC board strip electric connector is broken, right?