Fixed....first I put the jumpers, so the gun was probably not ready, that cause bad solder joints. I put fresh solder and sounds good.By the way I didnt have 10k pot and I try
47k works fine..
Electrolytes? They should be non-polar MKT's or other film caps. MKT's can handle way more than 18v but that doesn't even matter because they are in the signal path.
No one??Pls!
Is there a possibility that the C9 and C1 be the problem? Because I put electrolytes of 50V so that I can use 18V DC.
Is it ok for the jumpers to touch the dipswitch?
I built this thing but I don't get a substantial boost out of it. The pot will turn up the volume a bit, but the overall volume (while pot is maxed) is less than unity. Where might the problem lie? I should note, I haven't hooked up the SPDT switches I'm using instead of a DIP. Although I gather that shouldn't affect the circuit not boosting the signal. Where might my problem lie?
I'm pretty excited about this one, I've been having some trouble getting the Tonepad MXR Noise Gate working, so this might save the day :)
One little thing though: The description talks about a VTL5C10 or a LED/LDR combination... but the BOM and the actual layout doesn't mention them at all.
This definitely works, and fits into a 1590A case :)
I used your mods R1 = 1M, R4 = 110k (actually have a 100k in there now)
The pot is most useful between 4 and 5 o'clock, and 5 o'clock is maxed.
I'm still kinda new to this, any suggested mods to get even more use of the range of the pot? Guessing bumping R4 might have something to do with it? Seems like having a lower value pot would make it more useful?
Thanks you for the tip, but this only reduce a little gain.
I want the boost pot to act as volume pot. or something like that, because when i hit the pedal it becomes to loud.
i already put a 100k out to act as a volume but its not the same, and i want to keep the 100R impedance at the end.
When you build the properly it works.....faithful repro of original Coron 15 which I am lucky enough to own. Nice project, not too complex. I used OA90 diodes, but LEDs or other diodes should work. Also, just use the closest possible values, if you can't get the actual exact ones !
Good luck, it took me a few attempts to get it going, the eyes are not what they used to be.
Built it today and it works just fine....I will AB it with a Coron 15 I have sat around, although it looks authentic enough in terms of values of components etc...can't see why it would sound any worse at all. Niceley laid out and very compact. If you are from UK just use the nearest value components. I had to opt for OA90 germanium diodes (this is all Maplin had at the time). Although LEDS / other diodes should work fine as well.
This came right together and sounds as nasty as it should. Thanks for the layout!
Fixed....first I put the jumpers, so the gun was probably not ready, that cause bad solder joints. I put fresh solder and sounds good.By the way I didnt have 10k pot and I try
47k works fine..
That's what I thought but in the picture it almost look as if there's a cut there. Thanks for the help. I'll post my results.
What I mean is, that I used 50V electrolytic and I am asking if there is a possibility that this cause the small value MKTs to have problem.
Electrolytes? They should be non-polar MKT's or other film caps. MKT's can handle way more than 18v but that doesn't even matter because they are in the signal path.
No one??Pls!
Is there a possibility that the C9 and C1 be the problem? Because I put electrolytes of 50V so that I can use 18V DC.
Is it ok for the jumpers to touch the dipswitch?
... wouldn't make sense too since C14 is placed vertically on the edge of the board.
Is there a trace cut under C14?
Fantastic tone!But I have scratches on the sound almost all the time and getting worst with second switch on. Please help!
I only get a few db of gain on this thing. Where might the problem lie?
I built this thing but I don't get a substantial boost out of it. The pot will turn up the volume a bit, but the overall volume (while pot is maxed) is less than unity. Where might the problem lie? I should note, I haven't hooked up the SPDT switches I'm using instead of a DIP. Although I gather that shouldn't affect the circuit not boosting the signal. Where might my problem lie?
You have to cut the trace there. I always doublecheck if the cut is 100% using my multimeter.
Just to verify...the red boxes with dods means that you just open the circuit, but you don't place anything?
The PDF for PCB version it's verified and ok ?
i have already make the veroboard verison but dosnt' work :'(
What program did you use to render/design this layout?
Thanks
Tristan
but tell me, where is the fuzz ! don`t work...
Will this fix it?
A cut trace is missing under the IC, between PIN 4 & PIN5 respectively VCC - & OFFSET N2
To fix: Cut position (5 along, 5 down)
The ground must be wired between R1 & IC PIN4 on the other side of row #5
To fix: Connect (3 along, 5 down) to (8 along, 5 down) with a wire.
I'm pretty excited about this one, I've been having some trouble getting the Tonepad MXR Noise Gate working, so this might save the day :)
One little thing though: The description talks about a VTL5C10 or a LED/LDR combination... but the BOM and the actual layout doesn't mention them at all.
What do I need to do?
Thanks! :)
This definitely works, and fits into a 1590A case :)
I used your mods R1 = 1M, R4 = 110k (actually have a 100k in there now)
The pot is most useful between 4 and 5 o'clock, and 5 o'clock is maxed.
I'm still kinda new to this, any suggested mods to get even more use of the range of the pot? Guessing bumping R4 might have something to do with it? Seems like having a lower value pot would make it more useful?
Appreciate any ideas!
thanks :)
Can I replace the 2N5088 with 2N2222 or 2N3904 without any issues?
I must say your site rocks!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks you for the tip, but this only reduce a little gain.
I want the boost pot to act as volume pot. or something like that, because when i hit the pedal it becomes to loud.
i already put a 100k out to act as a volume but its not the same, and i want to keep the 100R impedance at the end.
Thank you for verifying it!
I really should spend more time on DIYL ... :(
Replace R1 with 6K8
When you build the properly it works.....faithful repro of original Coron 15 which I am lucky enough to own. Nice project, not too complex. I used OA90 diodes, but LEDs or other diodes should work. Also, just use the closest possible values, if you can't get the actual exact ones !
Good luck, it took me a few attempts to get it going, the eyes are not what they used to be.
Circuit verified....no excuses!
Built it today and it works just fine....I will AB it with a Coron 15 I have sat around, although it looks authentic enough in terms of values of components etc...can't see why it would sound any worse at all. Niceley laid out and very compact. If you are from UK just use the nearest value components. I had to opt for OA90 germanium diodes (this is all Maplin had at the time). Although LEDS / other diodes should work fine as well.
Nice one Harold!!